Sake tasting in Nada at Nishinomiya-go

My sake brewery tour continues in October. This time I visit the Nishinomiya city side of Nada. Nada spans Kobe city and Nishinomiya city.

I take Hanshin railway from Osaka Umeda station before noon. As playoff game is to take place in Koshien baseball stadium between Hanshin Tigers and Hiroshima Carps, many baseball colors are on board. The name makes it obvious that Hanshin railway and Hanshin Tigers are related, so using Hanshin railway is perhaps the most convenient way to go to the stadium. My destination is one stop further Koshien station in Express train.

Perhaps I have never been to Nishinomiya city. I sometimes go to Kobe, but do not stop between Osaka and Kobe. Nishinomiya is located between Kobe and Osaka.

Nishinomiya breweries are in walking distance from the station. First stop is at Hakutaka-rokusui-en(白鷹禄水苑). Hakutaka means "white falcon". There is authentic restaurant inside to enjoy sake with food, but all on the menu are too expensive to me, so I take sake sampler of the season at Kura bar. As a sake novice, I can not tell the description of the three sake on offer, but I just tell that all are fresh, dry, and very good when served cold. Also each is served in rather small quantity, so I enjoy each sip by taking enough time. As it is just after noon and I am the only person taking sake, Kura bar is very quiet and atmospheric.

Entrance to Hakutara-rokusuien

Sake sampler at Kura bar in Hakutara-rokusuien

Kura bar in Hakutara-rokusui-en

After taking nourishment of sake at Hakutaka-rokusuien, I go on to sake museums of Hakushika. Hakushika means "white deer". Somehow, shiro(白) or white is often used for the name of breweries in Nada. There may be a historic meaning of this naming that I am not aware of.

You have to pay 400 yen entrance fee that is valid for both Sake museum and memorial hall. And better yet, you get 180ml miniature Sake bottle as souvenir for this fee. It is more than worth it.

Entrance to Hakushika Sake museum

Like its counterparts in Kobe city side of Nada, Sake brewing processes are displayed and explained in the museum. It must be very interesting to understand each process, but I can't still get the gist. I have been to whisky factory tour at Suntory Yamazaki twice, in Jameson Dublin twice, in Bushmills once, but still can't understand the whisky distillation process. My interest is focused on tasting, not learning the process. Someday, my attitude may change.

Hakushika Sake museum

Hakushika Sake museum

Souvenir miniature Sake bottle of Hakushika Sake museum

After museum and memorial hall complex of Hakushika, I walk along Sakagura street to another Sake spot of Nihonsakari brick building hall. Sakagura street literally means "Sake storehouse" street. There seems to be many activities on offer in this hall besides Sake. As bar-restaurant is fully reserved, I only take free Sake tasting. As it is free, the quantity is too small to fully appreciate Sake.

Nihonsakari brick building hall

On my way back to Nishinomiya station, I paid a visit to two places that makes Nada the center of Sake brewery. Miyamizu high quality water that was found in Nishinomiya is one of the several factors that makes Nada famous for Sake. There is one garden and one monument that are related to this high quality water, but not so interesting, to be honest.

Miyamizu(high quality water) garden

The place of origin of Miyamizu(high quality water) 

Kurama abounds in spiritual energy

Kurama is just about 30 minutes train ride from central Kyoto, and yet the area is surrounded by abundant nature and there is even a spa. Kurama temple was established in 770 by Gancho. Mount Kurama is 584m high, and perhaps whole mountain is the ground of training and practice for Kurama temple's monks. The principle image of Kurama temple is Sonten(尊天), which is universe's great spirits, great ray, and great active object. Maybe due to this and its surrounding nature, Kurama is said to be one of such places where spiritual energy abounds in Kyoto.

Also, Kurama is well known for its long-nosed mountain goblin(天狗), which trained young samurai Minamoto Yoshitsune(源義経). Yoshitsune is one of the most popular samurai in Japanese history. He heroically defeated Taira clan with genius tactics in late Heian period(late in 12th century), which ironically lead to unease of his elder brother and the very first Shogun of Minamoto Yoritomo. Yoshitsune was tragically attacked and killed in far away Hiraizumi in north east of Japan. 

Edo period(17th - 19th century) haiku master Matsuo Basho read famous haiku in Hiraizumi where Yoshitsune was killed:

夏草や　兵どもの　夢の跡 / Summer grasses, All that remains, Of warriors' dreams

A long-nosed goblin of Kurama greets you

Deva gate of Kurama temple, on top of Mount Kurama

From Kurama train station, you pass in front of the statue of long-nosed mountain goblin, and in 5 minutes you reach the main entrance of Kurama temple and Mount Kurama. There are several shops which sells very local product, but there is no touristy atmosphere. I mentioned the train station, but it is very local train service and it runs just with two cars.

800 year old cedar tree

There are spiritual trees even before arriving the main hall of Kurama temple. This 800 year-old cedar tree seems to ooze out the spirit. There is even shrine inside Kurama temple. This is very unique Japanese religious ambiguity where Buddhism and indigenous Shinto coexist. The shinto shrine Yuki shrine is the stage of Kurama fire festival that takes place 22-October every year.

View from the main hall of Kurama temple

It is not exactly mountain climbing, but still it is a good walk to reach the main hall. View from the stage in front of the main hall is very rewarding. There only mountains are viewed. Only 30 minutes from central Kyoto and you get this splendid view.

Stone floor with geometric patten is said to be where energy flow out

And in front of the main hall, this geometric patterned stone floor is found. You may wonder that this is the grounding area for UFO. If there is long-nosed mountain goblins living here, why not UFO?

the main hall 

Inside the main hall, monk was chanting heart sutra. There are many statue of Buddhism deities. As photos are prohibited inside main hall, you have to appreciate them yourself.

"Path of tree root" from Kurama to Kibune

From the main hall of Kurama temple, you can go to Kibune shrine via mountain path. Most of the path are stone steps, but there are some ranges where there is no stone steps and instead only tree root. This is called "path of tree root"(木の根道). This is my second time to walk in this path. I remember from my previous walk that range of "path of tree root" is much longer, but I find on this occasion actually not so long. Most are stone steps. But ups and downs are very steep, and I only meet only a couple of persons in the entire path. If you like the serene spiritual place, this is for you. But if you are not good at such a place, do not try alone.

Okuno-in sits in very quietly between Kurama and Kibune

Half way from Kurama temple to Kibune, you find tranquil structure of Okuno-in. I wonder if Yoshitune worked on his swordsmanship in such a place as this more than 800 years ago.

West gate of Kurama temple

After the last steep downs of mountain path, you get to the end of trail, or west gate of Kurama temple. Kurama is east to Kibune. Kibune is famous for floor over river restaurants in the hot summer. It is said that Kibune is 3-5 degree cooler than central Kyoto. Now in October, I don't find any floor over river restaurants, but there are a lot of establishments that commands hundreds of years of history.

Steps to Kibune shrine

Kibune river runs along Kibune and Kibune shrine. This is the origin of Kyoto's main river of Kamo river, and Kibune is the place of worship for water. It is said that Izumi Shikibu(和泉式部) of 10th to 11th century paid a visit to Kibune shrine and there are several monuments that are related to her, and due to that fact, the path from Kibune shrine to Kibune station of local train service is named path of love.

I have been to Kurama three times including this occasion, but only in September-October. I really like to come here in winter, preferably when snow falls. I am not so god at cold, but in winter more spiritual this place must be.

Stone civilization of 6th century Asuka in Nara

On sunny day of September 22nd, I visited Asuka village in Nara prefecture first time in my life. Kyoto city and Nara city are often called ancient capital, but Asuka is at least 2 centuries older than Nara city as capital of Japanese Yamato court. Recommended way to explore Asuka area is to rent a bicycle, so I obediently followed the recommendation.

Fist stop was Takamatsuzuka area. Takamatsuzuka is famous for its wall paintings from Manyo(万葉) era. The meticulous reproduction of wall paintings were exhibited at Mural Museum. I can not tell the historical and cultural value of these paintings, but Japanese must have seen these in school textbook. So I see them as one of the root of Japanese civilization. Also, the scenery around this area was very rural and beautiful. Kyoto and Nara has famous temples and shrines, but still they are cities with convenience stores. On the other hand, Asuka is village with no convenience store. Thus I think this scenery is preserved.

Beautiful landscape near Takamatsuzuka area

Takamatsuzuka tumulus(tomb)

After Takmatsuzuka area, I bicycled on automobile road and small walk path. And I arrived at this very small spot with Tortoise Stone. The legend has it that when this Tortoise Stone faced west, heavy rains poured and the surrounding area was submerged. There was a rest place around this unique spot.

The Tortoise Stone

Short bicycle ride from Tortoise Stone got me to Tachibana-dera temple. This is said to be the birthplace Prince Shotoku, who became Regent and governed the court instead of Emperor. He had played pivotal role of introducing Buddhism to Japan. There were a lot of legendary stories associated with Prince Shotoku, and he was the face on 10,000 yen bank note until 1984.

Inside Tachibana-dera ground, there was another stone spot called Two-faced stone. North side represents Good and the south side represents Evil, meaning "Works of good and evil stem from one another". The surroundings of this temple was also very beautiful and rice paddies seemed to be near harvest time.

Tachibana-dera temple

Two-faced stone at Tachibana-dera temple

Walk path just outside of Tachibana-dera temple

To me, biggest mystery in Asuka village is Ishibutai tumulus tomb. I took Cliffs of Moher and Burren bus tour in Ireland, and saw dolmen there, which is I guess stone tomb from very old time. So this Japanese stone tomb and Irish dolemen may have some similarities. At least from the look of it, I feel so.

Ishibutai tumulus(tomb)

Entrance to Ishibutai tumulus

I continued bicycling among the rural surroundings. It is refreshing to see no tall concrete buildings at Asuka village. I got to Ishibuki-no-miya court ruins. There is said to be court house at this place. Now only stone foundations of old court house are seen. It itself is not impressive.

Rice paddy

Asuka Itabuki-no-miya ruins

Sakafune stone ruins was excavated around 2000. You dig, and you may find the ancient ruins. That is the beauty of Asuka.

Sakafune stone ruins

Soga-no-Iruka was noblemen and had strong influence in court in 7th century in Japan. Actually he and his family dominated the court and tried to limit the Emperor's governance. So Taika Reform of 645 took place spearheaded by pro-Emperor groups. In this incident, Soga-no-Iruka was assassinated and legend has it that his head flew to this place, Tomb of Soga-no-Iruka' Head(首塚). It can not be imagined that such a bloodshed took place in this rural place.

Tomb of Soga-no-Iruka's Head

Walk path in rural background

Final stop of Asuka bicycling was at Asuka temple. This temple was build by Soga-no-Umako, grandfather of Soga-no-Iruka. The statue of Buddha at this temple is 2.7m high and the oldest in Japan. You can listen to the storytelling of the temple monks, and you can take photos inside the temple, including statue of Buddha. There was restaurant-like establishment where the food from Asuka era is served, with prior bookings. I did not try, but still quite interesting. It must be quite different from Kyoto's haute cuisine or monk's all vegetarian meal(精進料理). Asuka beat even Kyoto and Nara when it comes to "ancient".

Asuka Buddha in Asuka temple

Sake tasting in Nada in Kobe

A strong typhoon hit Kansai on Sunday. Weather forecast is accurate on this occasion. So I took Sake tasting walk in Nada, Kobe yesterday on Saturday. I have been to Kobe more than a dozen of times, but I had just visited the central part of Kobe, so this is my first time to visit this part of Kobe.

Kobe was directly hit by a terrible earthquake in January 1995. I felt the big jolt in Kyoto in the early morning of that winter day, and transportation was disrupted even in Kyoto. Most of the Nada Sake breweries suffered great damages and their old buildings were crushed. But the area I visited yesterday is mostly reconstructed and shows no image of those terrible events except the panels showing the area immediately after the earthquake.

There are so called three very good Sake brewing areas in Japan, which are Saijo in Hiroshima prefecture, Nada in Hyogo prefecture, and Fushimi in Kyoto city. Nada Sake breweries stretch from Kobe city to Nishinomiya city, both of which are in Hyogo prefecture, running in parallel of inland sea coast. And Nada Sake breweries are further divided into five areas, which consists from west to east of Nishi-go, Mikage-go, Uozaki-go, Nishinomiya-go, and Imazu-go. The first three are in Kobe city and I only covered these three on this occasion.

In Fushimi, I learned that good quality water is a deciding factor for quality Sake. But Nada seems to have much more factors. Nada has good water, good rice especially suited for Sake called "Yamada-Nishiki", Sake making masters from Tamba area called "Tamba-Toji", and cold winter wind from Mount Rokko located to the north. I was surprised by the fact that winter wind contributes to the quality of Sake. By the way, this "wind from Mount Rokko" is called "Rokko-oroshi" and this is the name of a song that professional baseball team Hanshin Tigers adopts. Hanshin means Osaka-Kobe, and this baseball team is loved by people of Kansai.

First stop is Sawanotsuru Sake Museum in Nishi-go. This place is designated as "important tangible folk-cultural property"(重要有形民族文化財).  This is a two-storied building, and shows the sake making process from the beginning to the end. Also on display is model of cargo vessel from Edo era, which lasted from 17th to 19th century. Nada's sake seems to become very popular at Edo, modern day Tokyo, where Tokugawa shogunate sat. Nada took advantage of its good port to transport quantities of sake to Edo, enhancing its reputation further.

Sawanotsuru Sake Museum in Nishi-go

Mockup of Edo-era's cargo vessel on display at Swanotsuru Sake museum

Next stop was at Kobe Shu-shin-kan Brewery. On the map, the distance between two places seems not far, but it I felt I walked quite a distance. I learned that Fukuju brand sake from this brewery was used at Nobel prize awarding ceremony in Stockholm. Sake served at prestigious Western ceremony sounds strange to me, but the quality of this sake must be transcendent, rendering cultural difference meaningless. That sake was sold-out so nobody can not get hand on this until November. This place consists of four buildings, and I tried sake samplers at shop area. Tasting three different sake is a fun experience, but my novice tongue can not describe the character of each of them.

Entrance to brewing area at Kobe Shu-shin-kan Brewery

Large wooden vat on display at Kobe Shu-shin-kan Brewery

Sake samplers at Kobe Shu-shin-kan Brewery

After sampling sake, I walked further east to Hakutsuru. Hakutsuru means "white crane". Hakutsuru was established in 1743. It sounds not so old to me. This place prepares pamphlet not only in Japanese but also in English, Chinese, and Korean. I am not good at biology and chemistry, so how many times I see and hear sake production process, I can not memorize nor understand. I left Hakutsuru to walk further east to get to Uozaki-go.

The Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum in Mikage-go

Signpost of Uozaki-go 

I seldom drink sake, but this Kikumasamune brand must be famous as even I recognize this name. This establishment is also designated as "important tangible folk-cultural property". I feel the black wall of this wooden building oozes the atmosphere and history of sake brewer. This neighborhood has museums, but it also has actual facilities that produce sake in quantities. That atmosphere reminds me of my visit to St. James gate, Dublin, where Guinness Co. has museum and production facilities both in one neighborhood.

Kikumasamune Sake Museum building at Mikage-go and Uozaki-go border

Watermill can be seen at Kikumasamune Sake museum ground

Even though I took some amount of sake at Kobe Shu-shin-kan, I minimized my take of sake as I had to walk quite a distant. Due to combined effect of late summer heat and distance I walked, I was quite tired at the point when I entered Uozaki-go. At Hamafukutsuru, 9 minutes of video was continuously played in the panel and exhibition course. The old fashioned story-teller explained the history of this brewery, and it was very funny. So I sat and watched, but it seemed I fell asleep at some point. But I saw only a couple of visitors when I was there, so I was not embarrassed by my falling asleep.

Large wooden vats at Hamafukutsuru Ginjo Brewery and Shop in Uozaki-go

My last stop of the day was Sakuramasamune, which is located a little walk from Hamafukutsuru. This place has two restaurants. One is ordinary restaurant, but the other seems to offer sophisticated and traditional course, which in turn means expensive. And that one is open after 5 PM. I expected that all the museums and related facilities are from 9/10 in the morning to 16/17 in the evening. Anyway, the expensive is not for me, so I just saw and appreciated the old wooden tools on display and exhibition room.

Entrance of Sakuramasamune "Sakuraen" in Uozaki-go

Sakuramasamune building has its pond inside premises

Now I covered Kobe part of Nada breweries more or less. Next I like to walk Nishinomiya part of Nada breweries. One of the fun is to sample sake at the location where it is made of course, but I have to moderate the quantity of consumption if I like to cover many of them in a day as I have to walk a lot. Besides actually drinking sake, I like to learn the history of ancient and recent. Ancient history of sake brewing, and recent history of recovering from the deadly earthquake of 1995.

Japan's modern capital to host 2020 Summer Olympic Games

Tokyo is chosen as the host city of 2020 Summer Olympic Games today. It was Sunday's early morning around 5:20 AM Japan time when IOC announced the voting result. It is encouraging to many Japanese, but maybe a bit of nuisance to certain people.

I am simply glad to hear the news. But two of the Summer Olympic Games in Japan to take place both in Tokyo is not a good idea to my cynical Kansai mind. Almost everything, from parliament and headquarters of big companies to Emperor's residence, are in Tokyo. There are great cities in Japan, from Sendai, Hiroshima, to Fukuoka, all of which has population of more than 1 million. They are big enough to host the games.

I like Japan's modern capital of Tokyo, which means "Eastern Capital". But I love Japan's ancient capital of Kyoto, which means "Capital". Kyoto was devastated when Emperor moved from Kyoto to Tokyo after Meiji restoration, closing 1200 year's Imperial residence here. Kyoto faced the existential crisis at the time in the late 19th century. Many of the craftsmen worked only for the need of Imperial family and noblemen. Those needs suddenly evaporated. Kyoto became just old, ancient, waiting for declining fortune and slow decay.

That's in mind, I walked on my regular path in philosophical mood around Kyoto in light rain.

In the last 19th century, a bold measure was conceived and tried, to successful implementation. That was Biwako canal(Lake Biwa canal). Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan and important transportation hub. Kyoto city does not have water transportation route, limiting transfer of large amount of goods. Kyoto municipal government tried to usher in the modern culture and technology in this very ancient and perhaps conservative place. The tunnel engineer of early 20s was in charge of the challenge of making canal. It was the biggest such endeavor in Japan at the time. After tremendous difficulties, the canal was made. Transportation became convenient, but also they came up the idea of making Japan's first sizable hydro-electric power plant using the water of the canal, which in turn lead to Japan's first "electric" train. This paved the way for Kyoto to industrialize and reverse the declining fortune.

These modern legacy can be seen in one of the most ancient place. Roman aqueduct in Nanzenji temple ground. This modern structure exists in perfect harmony with the ancient architecture.

Roman aqueduct of Biwako canal can be seen in Nanzenji temple ground

The water from Biwako canal made new waterway that is philosopher's path. I don't think this path is so impressive, but seems to attract many tourists. This path is named so because philosophers at nearby University of Kyoto walked along this path, thinking about the philosophical issues.

Water from Biwako canal makes philosopher's path north of Nanzenji

You can find tranquil place a short walk from the philosopher's path. It is called Honen-in temple. Honen is the founder of Pure land Buddhism of Japan in 12th century. So Honen himself was a philosopher, opening Buddhism to ordinary people for salvation. Buddhism in Japan was just for monks and noblemen at the time. This temple is located in secluded place and very quiet, which is perfect for contemplation.

Honen-in is a few minutes walk from philosopher's path

Walk further north and you will see the slope leading to Ginkaku-ji temple. But skip this too touristy a place and turn left, and keep walking. Then you see the campus of University of Kyoto. I heard that purpose of University of Tokyo is to produce 999 highly brilliant persons out of 1000 students, while purpose of University of Kyoto is to produce 1 genius(or insane person) out of 1000 students. I don't know the truth and I am not bright enough to go to this prestigious university. I don't take statistics, but I think majority of Japanese Nobel prize winners studied or researched at University of Kyoto.

On the street facing University of Kyoto, some establishments stand to feed the students and researchers. Shinpuku-saikan(新福菜館) may be Kyoto's most famous ramen restaurant. There is a branch of Shinpuku-saikan near university. The broth looks thick, but taste is plain.

Ramen broth at Shinpuku-saikan looks thick, but tastes plainly simple

I repeated that Kyoto is ancient city, but somehow bread in quality has been made in quantity in Kyoto. Arguably rice is Japanese staple from ancient times, but quality bread has been produced and consumed in this city. One of these bakery is Shinshin-do and it has cafe bakery near University. I have never entered the inside, but I guess it's very atmospheric cafe suited for philosophical or scientific discussion.

Atmospheric Shinshin-do cafe bakery near University of Kyoto, providing time and space for study

Conclusion. Congratulations for Tokyo to host 2020 Olympics. Tokyo is the attractive modern city. But Tokyo is just one aspect of Japan.