Zen - snow capped Kinkaku-ji

Significant snow fall was observed in the morning of Sunday February 1st in Kyoto. On this occasion, I went to see the snow capped Kinkaku-ji for the first time in my life. Actually I have been to that area quite often for half a decade, but my favorite is rock garden of Ryoan-ji and spacious and charge-free Ninna-ji, both of which are registered as UNESCO World heritage and in walking distance from Kinkaku-ji. At the opening time of 9 AM, there was a queue, but it was worth it.

Snow capped Golden Pavilion, 01-Feb-2015

Snow falling garden pond reminiscent of black and white drawing of Zen monk, 01-Feb-2015

Snow capped Golden Pavilion from the hill, 01-Feb-2015

Golden Pavilion has become so famous an image that people seems to forget that this is a Zen temple, belonging to Shokoku-ji branch of Rinzai school. Gold covered pavilion seems to be against to wabi-sabi aesthetic of Zen, but get rid of Golden Pavilion and its pond and garden has still quite a tranquil charm. There is also tea house preserved that entertained the emperor and nobility centuries ago. 

There were three shogunates in Japanese history. The first is Minamoto/Kamakura from the late 12th to the middle of 14th century. The second is Ashikaga/Muromachi from the middle of 14th to the late 16th century. The third is Tokugawa/Edo from the beginning of 17th to the late 19th century. The Golden Pavilion was constructed by the 3rd shogun of Ashikaga/Muromachi shogunate. 

Of the three shogunates, I used to think Muromachi era the least appealing. But now re-learning the history of tea, and various form of art and national psyche, Muromachi was an era that broadened the basis of preceding era and took them to the completing stage. Buddhism had been just for scholars and nobilities till 12th century. Pure land and Zen made them to the element of everyone's and everyday's life when nobilities gave up power to samurai. It seems ironic that emergence of samurai the fighter emancipated Buddhism to farmers and merchants. Of course it were monks that spearheaded the new schools of Kamakura Buddhism, but samurai the fighter adhered to Zen and farmers to Pure land.

Once I read D.T.Suzuki's book that said there is no boundary of subject and object. Every action in everyday life is mundane and sublime at the same time, thus there is no boundary between mundane and sublime. Visiting famous temple is sublime and mundane at the same time, and there is no boundary of religious practice and non religious practice. Every actions in life is religious and non religious at the same time. As there may be no boundary between gaudy and modest, so Kingaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji may be opposite and same at the same time. Confusing and confused.

The book of tea - Daitoku-ji, which lead to tea master Rikyu's death

Daitoku-ji is the large temple complex belonging to Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, located in the north of Kyoto. It has been contributing to the development of tea-ism, which Okakura Tenshin used to describe tea culture of Japan instead of commonly used phrase of "tea ceremony". Okakura's view is that a cup of tea is not only mere cultural activity but similar to "ism" in its significance. Ironically, the greatest of the great tea master Rikyu was ordered ritual suicide of "seppuku" because he was said to build the great gate there, which angered his patron of samurai leader Hideyoshi.

Daitoku-ji has been familiar to me since my childhood, as the graves of my ancestor is in one of the sub-temple of Daitoku-ji temple complex. But it had been just a temple and no more than that when I was young.

A couple of sub-temples is open to the public, and all of them have splendid gardens, most of them being dry landscape garden. Ryoan-ji's rock garden is widely known as the greatest dry landscape garden so it is always crowded. But Daitoku-ji's garden is not crowded except in the autumn foliage season, and yet their beauty is equal to Ryoan-ji's rock garden. To me, their world view is best appreciated in the cold days in the winter. There is no heating appliances, you have to take off your shoes, and you have to face the garden squarely.

Today, I visited Zuiho-in inside Daitoku-ji complex. There were only a couple of visitors, but just that. So I could occupy the whole space. If you like to experience a dry landscape garden, I strongly recommend to visit Daitoku-ji. Always open to the public includes Ryogen-in, Zuiho-in, Daisen-in, and Koto-in. Daisen-in hosts za-zen session on the weekend, so it would be of interest to you if you like to try za-zen.

Dry landscape garden of Zuiho-in, 10-Jan-2015

Tea room of Ansho-ken of Zuiho-in, 10-Jan-2015

Further north of Daitoku-ji, there are a couple of good temples and retreat. One of them is Genko-an, which belongs to Soto school of Zen Buddhism. Two window, one is circular, the other is rectangular,  are said to represent the enlightenment and doubt respectively. Window of enlightenment uses circular shape to symbolize Zen and circular path, while window of doubt uses rectangular shape to symbolize man's life of birth-aging-sickness-death.

Circular window and rectangular window in Genko-an, 10-Jan-2015

The book of tea - snow capped Ginkaku-ji

There is a television program that picks one classical literature and takes 100 minutes to read it in four weeks(one month). It is called "100 pun de meicho", aired by NHK, translated roughly to "classical literature in 100 minutes". January 2015's pick is "The book of tea" by Okakura Kakuzo(Tenshin).

Okakura wrote this masterpiece originally in English, which was later translated into Japanese. Okakura was born in Yokohama neighborhood, where the earliest trade between Japan and America took place in the late 19th century. It was written about 100 years ago, just after Russo-Japanese war. After Meiji restoration, Japan was obsessed with all things Western, particularly technology and life style, thus it was close to the point of abandoning what had been accumulated over 2000 years of Japanese artistic history. In that period, Okakura found the immeasurable value in Japanese aesthetics. He had never been understood by contemporary Japanese, but had unlikely comrades from America. This lead to the valuable collections of Eastern arts in the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

The origin of art of tea could be traced to Ginkaku-ji temple in Kyoto, which I visited on 4-Jan. Kyoto experienced the heaviest snow fall in 56 years in the new year holidays of 2015. Ginkaku-ji was covered in snow. This snow fall may be once in a life experience. Now I go earnestly to take "The book of tea" in this background.

This wood sign post in Ginkaku-ji tells this is THE well that served the tea for shogun, 04-Jan-2015.

Ginkaku-ji covered with snow, 04-Jan-2015.

Kurama abounds in spiritual energy

Kurama is just about 30 minutes train ride from central Kyoto, and yet the area is surrounded by abundant nature and there is even a spa. Kurama temple was established in 770 by Gancho. Mount Kurama is 584m high, and perhaps whole mountain is the ground of training and practice for Kurama temple's monks. The principle image of Kurama temple is Sonten(尊天), which is universe's great spirits, great ray, and great active object. Maybe due to this and its surrounding nature, Kurama is said to be one of such places where spiritual energy abounds in Kyoto.

Also, Kurama is well known for its long-nosed mountain goblin(天狗), which trained young samurai Minamoto Yoshitsune(源義経). Yoshitsune is one of the most popular samurai in Japanese history. He heroically defeated Taira clan with genius tactics in late Heian period(late in 12th century), which ironically lead to unease of his elder brother and the very first Shogun of Minamoto Yoritomo. Yoshitsune was tragically attacked and killed in far away Hiraizumi in north east of Japan. 

Edo period(17th - 19th century) haiku master Matsuo Basho read famous haiku in Hiraizumi where Yoshitsune was killed:

夏草や　兵どもの　夢の跡 / Summer grasses, All that remains, Of warriors' dreams

A long-nosed goblin of Kurama greets you

Deva gate of Kurama temple, on top of Mount Kurama

From Kurama train station, you pass in front of the statue of long-nosed mountain goblin, and in 5 minutes you reach the main entrance of Kurama temple and Mount Kurama. There are several shops which sells very local product, but there is no touristy atmosphere. I mentioned the train station, but it is very local train service and it runs just with two cars.

800 year old cedar tree

There are spiritual trees even before arriving the main hall of Kurama temple. This 800 year-old cedar tree seems to ooze out the spirit. There is even shrine inside Kurama temple. This is very unique Japanese religious ambiguity where Buddhism and indigenous Shinto coexist. The shinto shrine Yuki shrine is the stage of Kurama fire festival that takes place 22-October every year.

View from the main hall of Kurama temple

It is not exactly mountain climbing, but still it is a good walk to reach the main hall. View from the stage in front of the main hall is very rewarding. There only mountains are viewed. Only 30 minutes from central Kyoto and you get this splendid view.

Stone floor with geometric patten is said to be where energy flow out

And in front of the main hall, this geometric patterned stone floor is found. You may wonder that this is the grounding area for UFO. If there is long-nosed mountain goblins living here, why not UFO?

the main hall 

Inside the main hall, monk was chanting heart sutra. There are many statue of Buddhism deities. As photos are prohibited inside main hall, you have to appreciate them yourself.

"Path of tree root" from Kurama to Kibune

From the main hall of Kurama temple, you can go to Kibune shrine via mountain path. Most of the path are stone steps, but there are some ranges where there is no stone steps and instead only tree root. This is called "path of tree root"(木の根道). This is my second time to walk in this path. I remember from my previous walk that range of "path of tree root" is much longer, but I find on this occasion actually not so long. Most are stone steps. But ups and downs are very steep, and I only meet only a couple of persons in the entire path. If you like the serene spiritual place, this is for you. But if you are not good at such a place, do not try alone.

Okuno-in sits in very quietly between Kurama and Kibune

Half way from Kurama temple to Kibune, you find tranquil structure of Okuno-in. I wonder if Yoshitune worked on his swordsmanship in such a place as this more than 800 years ago.

West gate of Kurama temple

After the last steep downs of mountain path, you get to the end of trail, or west gate of Kurama temple. Kurama is east to Kibune. Kibune is famous for floor over river restaurants in the hot summer. It is said that Kibune is 3-5 degree cooler than central Kyoto. Now in October, I don't find any floor over river restaurants, but there are a lot of establishments that commands hundreds of years of history.

Steps to Kibune shrine

Kibune river runs along Kibune and Kibune shrine. This is the origin of Kyoto's main river of Kamo river, and Kibune is the place of worship for water. It is said that Izumi Shikibu(和泉式部) of 10th to 11th century paid a visit to Kibune shrine and there are several monuments that are related to her, and due to that fact, the path from Kibune shrine to Kibune station of local train service is named path of love.

I have been to Kurama three times including this occasion, but only in September-October. I really like to come here in winter, preferably when snow falls. I am not so god at cold, but in winter more spiritual this place must be.

Stone civilization of 6th century Asuka in Nara

On sunny day of September 22nd, I visited Asuka village in Nara prefecture first time in my life. Kyoto city and Nara city are often called ancient capital, but Asuka is at least 2 centuries older than Nara city as capital of Japanese Yamato court. Recommended way to explore Asuka area is to rent a bicycle, so I obediently followed the recommendation.

Fist stop was Takamatsuzuka area. Takamatsuzuka is famous for its wall paintings from Manyo(万葉) era. The meticulous reproduction of wall paintings were exhibited at Mural Museum. I can not tell the historical and cultural value of these paintings, but Japanese must have seen these in school textbook. So I see them as one of the root of Japanese civilization. Also, the scenery around this area was very rural and beautiful. Kyoto and Nara has famous temples and shrines, but still they are cities with convenience stores. On the other hand, Asuka is village with no convenience store. Thus I think this scenery is preserved.

Beautiful landscape near Takamatsuzuka area

Takamatsuzuka tumulus(tomb)

After Takmatsuzuka area, I bicycled on automobile road and small walk path. And I arrived at this very small spot with Tortoise Stone. The legend has it that when this Tortoise Stone faced west, heavy rains poured and the surrounding area was submerged. There was a rest place around this unique spot.

The Tortoise Stone

Short bicycle ride from Tortoise Stone got me to Tachibana-dera temple. This is said to be the birthplace Prince Shotoku, who became Regent and governed the court instead of Emperor. He had played pivotal role of introducing Buddhism to Japan. There were a lot of legendary stories associated with Prince Shotoku, and he was the face on 10,000 yen bank note until 1984.

Inside Tachibana-dera ground, there was another stone spot called Two-faced stone. North side represents Good and the south side represents Evil, meaning "Works of good and evil stem from one another". The surroundings of this temple was also very beautiful and rice paddies seemed to be near harvest time.

Tachibana-dera temple

Two-faced stone at Tachibana-dera temple

Walk path just outside of Tachibana-dera temple

To me, biggest mystery in Asuka village is Ishibutai tumulus tomb. I took Cliffs of Moher and Burren bus tour in Ireland, and saw dolmen there, which is I guess stone tomb from very old time. So this Japanese stone tomb and Irish dolemen may have some similarities. At least from the look of it, I feel so.

Ishibutai tumulus(tomb)

Entrance to Ishibutai tumulus

I continued bicycling among the rural surroundings. It is refreshing to see no tall concrete buildings at Asuka village. I got to Ishibuki-no-miya court ruins. There is said to be court house at this place. Now only stone foundations of old court house are seen. It itself is not impressive.

Rice paddy

Asuka Itabuki-no-miya ruins

Sakafune stone ruins was excavated around 2000. You dig, and you may find the ancient ruins. That is the beauty of Asuka.

Sakafune stone ruins

Soga-no-Iruka was noblemen and had strong influence in court in 7th century in Japan. Actually he and his family dominated the court and tried to limit the Emperor's governance. So Taika Reform of 645 took place spearheaded by pro-Emperor groups. In this incident, Soga-no-Iruka was assassinated and legend has it that his head flew to this place, Tomb of Soga-no-Iruka' Head(首塚). It can not be imagined that such a bloodshed took place in this rural place.

Tomb of Soga-no-Iruka's Head

Walk path in rural background

Final stop of Asuka bicycling was at Asuka temple. This temple was build by Soga-no-Umako, grandfather of Soga-no-Iruka. The statue of Buddha at this temple is 2.7m high and the oldest in Japan. You can listen to the storytelling of the temple monks, and you can take photos inside the temple, including statue of Buddha. There was restaurant-like establishment where the food from Asuka era is served, with prior bookings. I did not try, but still quite interesting. It must be quite different from Kyoto's haute cuisine or monk's all vegetarian meal(精進料理). Asuka beat even Kyoto and Nara when it comes to "ancient".

Asuka Buddha in Asuka temple

Mount Yoshino is refreshing even without cherry blossoms

Mount Yoshino in central Nara prefecture is famous for its cherry blossoms. I like to see them once in my lifetime, but I expect it's too crowded in that season to appreciate the beauty of floating nature. Recently I have been to Nara prefecture several times, Nara city where cosmic Buddha sits in Todai-ji temple, Ikaruga town where World Heritage Site Horyu-ji temple stands, and Hase where sacred Hase-dera is located. But I have never been to Mount Yoshino, so I took the day trip to Mount Yoshino on late summer holiday on September 6th.

It took about 2 hours from Kyoto to Yoshino by Kintetsu railway. The landscape from the railway south of Kashihara jingu station is really beautiful. It's very rural, a lot of green and large plot of rice paddy. Time seems to be very slow in this part of Nara.

From Kintetsu Yoshino station, ropeway ride of a couple of minutes get you at the entrance of Mount Yoshino. As this is not cherry blossoms season nor autumn foliage time, the area is deserted. Actually the whole area is designated as World Heritage Site of "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range", but it seems that does not attract many visitors aside from high season.

Just a short walk from ropeway station, a couple of gate appears and then Kimpsen-ji temple comes to your eyes. This is the place of mountain Shugendo training, mixing Buddhism and Shinto. It is said to be the 2nd largest wooden building after Todai-ji. When I arrived, there was some ritual or ceremony under way. But don't be afraid. It is not of so mysterious nature.

Near this temple, there is Yoshimizu shrine. In 14th century, there was two emperors in Japan for a brief period. One was in Kyoto called Northern Court, the other was in Yoshino called Southern Court. This Yoshimizu shrine is dedicated for Emperor Go-daigo of Southern Court. But the attraction of this shrine is not history but view of mountain. As this is early September, the mountain is covered with refreshing green. I guess the entire mountain would be covered with cherry blossoms in spring. It must be superb.

From there, slope becomes rather steep. I managed to get to Chikurin-in where nice garden is maintained. This is the only place to pay admission fee (300 yen) in the day. There are other spots further up, but I don't go further and start to return. There are many shops to sell "sushi with persimmon leaf" and "kuzukiri". Nara is famous for both of these speciality foods. Yoshino is especially famous of "kudzu" from which "kuzukiri" is made. Most of the shops are deserted. I entered one shop and no shop clerk was seen even after I called. But I managed to find one shop where shop clerks were there. By the way kudzu is some kind of plant, which I don't know much, and kuzukiri is translated as "clear cake of boiled kuzuko cut into noodle-like strips and eaten with kuromitsu". If you like to try yet another type of noodle after ramen, this may be it.

World Heritage Site Kimpuse-ji temple Zaodo, Mount Yoshino

Mount Yoshino would be filled with cherry blossoms in spring

Yoshino is famous for Kudzu plant, from which Kuzukiri is made

Ise shrine under reconstruction at its 20th year

Finally, the heat wave in Kansai is subsiding. I took a late holidays, though it was just a couple of days. The most important Shinto tradition is now taking place in Ise shrine that is the most sacred in Japan, so I took this opportunity to take a day trip to Ise city on September 5th. Using Kintetsu railway limited express, it is about two hours from Kyoto to Ise city. 

I have been to Ise shrine only once in my lifetime. And it was a school trip when I was at elementary school. My memory of this sacred place is vague at best, non-existing at my worst.

Anyway, what I called the most important Shinto tradition now under way at Ise shrine is called Shikinen-Sengu(式年遷宮). I looked for the translation of this, and one on-line dictionary translates "construction of a new shrine and transfer of the enshrined object from the old to the new, occurring at a regular, preordained time." Every 20 years all the buildings of Ise shrine is reconstructed and deities are relocated to new buildings. And this has been ongoing over 1300 years, beginning int the reign of Empress Jito in 600s. A bit away from main topics, but you may be surprised that there was an Empress in the Japanese history.

There is said to be two reasons for this tradition. The first is that all the buildings of Ise shrine are built with woods, so it can not stand for long years. The second is that reconstructing all the buildings every 20 years can transfer the technique and knowledge of shrine building from one generation to the next. I think the second reason more important. I can not compare my day to day job to this Shinto tradition, but nowadays I think this kind of activities are rather neglected in workplace as redundant.

Entrance gate of Ise shrine Naiku (Inner shrine)

Isuzu-gawa river runs in Ise shrine Naiku (Inner shrine)

Main hall of Ise shrine Geku (Outer shrine)

Kyoto mountain burning in midsummer, Daimonji and other mountains (August 16th)

Unknown to me, midsummer(around August 15th) is a holiday season in Japan. But summer holidays differ from company to company, or from person to person. The company I work for doesn't set any holidays in this season. Instead, I can set an holiday week any time in the year.

Anyway, midsummer observes two important memories in Japan. One is that Japan surrendered to the Allies in the world war II on August 15th, with entire nation in ruin. The other is related to Buddhism, in which the spirits of the ancestors visit this world in mid August, occasion being called O-bon. Usually family members living at different places get together in O-bon week. Another occasion when family members get together is new year's holidays. "New year and O-bon coming at the same time" is how Japanese expresses the very busy state.

Kyoto city observes O-bon by burning Chinese characters or figure written on five mountains surrounding the city on August 16th. Most well-known and first to be set fire is Mt. Daimonji. "Dai"(大) of Daimonji means "big" in Chinese character. This event is said to pray the peaceful return of the ancester's spirits that is visiting this(living) world back to another(not living) world. Usually after this event, the scorching heat subsides and usher in autumn. But it seems this year is an exception. We have to endure one or possibly two weeks of another terrible heat in Kansai.

Mt. Daimonji viewed from Kitao-ji bridge around 20:10

Marine Day holiday at Gio-ji temple's moss garden

The third Monday of July is Marine Day holiday in Japan. I think the reason why there is a holiday for seas is unknown to most Japanese. It seems that the government likes to make Japan as marine country. You don't have to explicitly state that as you can easily see that Japan is surrounded by seas. But anyway, extra holiday is good for workers.

City center of Kyoto is extra crowded as Gion festival nears its climax. Hot, humid, no good. But I had a good experience to visit Gio-ji in Saga, northwest of Kyoto, around the same time last year, so I visited there today. Gio-ji is located a little bit far from touristy area of Arashiyama, and its temple ground is small, and no grand gate or building is there. So there is only a few visitors in this season. It may be well known for autumn foliage season, but I feel Gio-ji is most appreciated in this season as its moss-covered garden becomes lush with pure green. It has rained for a couple days, so green of moss-covered garden looks extra green.

Gio-ji is known for Gio, tragic figure associated with samurai Taira-no Kiyomori of late Heian period. How arrogant Kiyomori was!

Moss-covered garden of Gio-ji looks extra green after rain

Gion festival there

The occasion to go to Kyoto's center, Shijo-street, becomes less frequent these days. But still go there occasionally. And at this time of the year, humidity and temperature is quite uncomfortable in Kyoto, especially in central Kyoto. There is no skyscrapers in Kyoto, but buildings of 6 floors or 7 floors are concentrated in these area so that heat island phenomenon makes there hotter. And so does Gion festival, which officially continues from July 1st to July 31st. But the most atmospheric period is the nights from 14th to 16th, which correspond to pre-, pre-pre-, pre-pre-pre nights of the main event. Main events takes place on 17th, but I have seen the main event only once in my life even though I have been living in Kyoto. Gondolas are pulled by volunteers and move through main streets. That's the festival of old days, which was organized by emperor(or nobles?) to expel the evil spirit and bad wether from the capital. It may be interesting, but not much for modern people. But pre- nights forces streets pedestrians only and many stalls are there to sell anything from standard skewed chicken, fried noodles, to raw cucumber. That's the festival of modern times. Old or modern, this festival has history of 1000 or so years.

One of  gondolas of Gion festival on Shijo street

Kimii-dera and Wakayama castle

At JR Kimii-dera station, the first thing I noticed was the direction where to go in case of tsunami. I can not tell where the area is situated at the station, but from the top of the Kimii-dera temple, it is clear. The area around the station is flat and close to the sea. If the tsunami of Tohoku scale would come, the train station would be flooded. The best place to go will be this temple as this temple is built on the mountain. The mountain is not so high, but enough for people to flee from tsunami.

This temple in Wakayama pref. is the 2nd of 33 western Japan pilgrimage site. The 1st one is further south in Wakayama pref. Perhaps this is my first time to visit Wakayama pref. with train. I saw some familiar name of station. Kushimoto-cho was where Japan saved members of Ottoman Turkey's delegation that was hit by typhoon and their ship wrecked more than 100 years ago. It is said that this sad accident and ensuing effort led to good relationship between Japan and Turkey.


Wakayama station is only two stops from Kimii-dera to the north. I didn't know what are there in Wakayama, but it got castle in the city center. Wakayama was known as Kii in Edo period and governed by Tokugawa family, from which shogun was chosen. I don't know if there were any shogun from Kii. I am realizing how I don't know about Japanese history, but completing the 33 pilgrimage site would help understand not only religious and cultural aspect but also historical aspect of Japan.

Kimii-dera is built on the mountain full of green

 

Rokuharamitsu-ji in the heart of Gion

Rainy season finally looks like rainy this week. My two pairs of shoes are still too soaked, so I had to use my old shoes, which is not so fit to my foot. I can't walk long hours with this shoes.

I continued my pilgrimage of 33 sacred Buddhist tempes in western Japan today. I visited Rokuharamitsu-ji, which is located close to very touristy area of Kyoto. Kiyomizu-dera is perhaps less than 30 minutes walk from Rokuharamitsu-ji, and Kyoto's first Zen temple of Kennin-ji and Gion is less than 10 minutes walk, but I have been to this temple only once in my entire life. And it was about 15 years ago. It's a short walk from my routine walk path, but it's kind of maze to reach there, so I always skip this temple. This temple is closely associated with samurai Taira-no Kiyomori, who briefly reigned Japan in late Heian period or late 12th century. Last year, NHK's year-long Sunday night histroy drama took on Kiyomori, but even that did not make me to try solve maze to reach this temple. The relationship between religion, warriors, nobles, and ordinary people are complicated in Japan, but it might be so worldwide.

Anyway, in comparison to temples in Shiga that I visited last week, temple ground is very small. Threre are not much ground to walk around. You have to pay 600 yen to enter the treasure house, but aside from that, it is free to roam. I am not religious, but started to distinguish the types of statue that each temple keeps as its principal image. And I was tempted to buy booklet of Heart Sutra, which I keep seeing at each temple. It costs only 300 yen. If I skip a glass of beer, it pays. And yet I didn't. But I found Heart Sutra in Japanese on YouTube and it's enough for now.

I think this temple is very famous, but there were not many people around, so I could step in the main hall and sit quietly to look at the statue. Religious or not religious, it is good to sit quietly facing sacred statue in the heart of mundane Gion district. 

Temple ground is not big in Rokuharamitsu-ji

Stamp and seal of Rokuharamitsu-ji pilgrimage

Shiga has much more to offer than the Great Lake - Ishiyama-dera and Mii-dera

Ask typical Japanese about Shiga prefecture and I bet you get the 1st reply of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan. And the 2nd reply? Don't expect more. Of course, Kyotorite knows more than Lake Biwa on Shiga prefecture as Kyoto and Shiga are neighbors.

I have been to Osaka much more often than to Shiga, as Shiga doesn't have much more things than Kyoto except the Great Lake. I have been to northeast of Shiga, notably Nagahama city and Hikone city. The reason I have been to Nagahama was that Nagahama has micro-brewery, and the fact that Nagahama had magnificient castle had nothing for me.

Today, I visited the southwest of Shiga, just 20 minutes or so from central Kyoto, at Ishiyama-dera and Mii-dera temple, both of which are included in the 33 Buddhist pilgrimage of western Japan. The best or worst thing about visiting there was that I have not seen single convenience store in my itenerary. That's quite difficult if you live in urban Japan. It could be better if cell phone would become unavailable due to the lack of access point.

I learned that Ishiyama-dera had a long history, actually longer than most of Kyoto temples, and autor of "the tale of Genji" had imagined the virtual world that later had been translated into the world first long novel at this temple. From the top of the temple premises, the good view of Seta river that flows from Lake Biwa can be seen.

Then Mii-dera also had a long history. Actually it origin dates back to Nara period, the period even before Kyoto became the imperial capital. From the top of this temple premises, the good view of Lake Biwa can be appreciated. And unknown to me, the temple has played central role of abacus development in Japan. There is stone monument describing the contribution of this temple to abacus development. Shiga was known as Omi in the old days, and Omi is famous for merchant. That may be because they can do math quickly with abacus.

Finally, if you are from American state of Michigan, you get a sister in Japan. Michigan state and Shiga prefecture has been sister states for decades. What they share? The Great Lake(s), obviously.

Rock and Pagoda of Ishiyama-dera temple

Stamp and seal of Ishiyama-dera pilgrimage

Jizo statue in unusual position in Mii-dera temple premises

Stamp and seal of Mii-dera pilgrimage

Sacred Mt. Hiei covered by cloud

Japan's most famous and most sacred mountain is obviously Mt. Fuji in central Japan. But for Kyotorite and Japanese Buddhism, Mt. Hiei is the place to admire. Rainy season is finally becoming rather wetty and typhoon is coming to Kansai. Yesterday, Mt. Hiei was partly covered by cloud. Mt. Hiei stands like the wall in the east end of Kyoto city, separating Kyoto and Shiga.

At the top of Mt. Hiei sits Enryaku-ji, perhaps the most influencial Buddhist establishment in Japanese history. Enryaku-ji is the head temple of Tendai school, which was opend by Saicho in early Heian period in 8th or 9th century. Enryaku-ji had been for the top learning place in Japan, like modern day's University of Tokyo or University of Kyoto. Enryaku-ji belongs to Tendai school, but many monks who had studied at Enryaku-ji started new schools of Buddhism. Honen was one of them. For centuries, Buddhism had been for noblemen, scholars, and imperial family, and not for ordinary farmers nor merchants. And Enryaku-ji itself had become complacent and corrupt. While studying at Enryaku-ji, Honen asked himself what the teaching was for if it could not help ordinary people. So he left Enryaku-ji and opened Pure Land school of Buddhism in 11th century. The only teaching of Pure Land Buddhism is to always recite "nam-ami-da-butsu", those meaning I actually don't know. Only this recitation gives yot salvation. Only noblemen had the opportunity to learn difficult Buddhism theory, but Buddhism should be for everyone, who may not have such an opportunity. It is obvious that farmers had been busy tending rice paddies and no time for learning in the old days. So came the simple practice of reciting "nam-ami-da-butsu" for the salvation. The head temple of Pure Land school is located in eastern Kyoto and named Chion-in. Its wooden gate is magnificient.

I got most of these stuff through manga. Yes, the Buddhism teaching is difficult for me, and I have no time and no will to learn Buddhism while I work as a salayman, so simple salvation is convenient for modern people as well as for the people in the past. Am I religious? No and Yes.

Mt. Hiei viewed from bank of Kamo river