2013/10/13

Kurama abounds in spiritual energy

Kurama is just about 30 minutes train ride from central Kyoto, and yet the area is surrounded by abundant nature and there is even a spa. Kurama temple was established in 770 by Gancho. Mount Kurama is 584m high, and perhaps whole mountain is the ground of training and practice for Kurama temple's monks. The principle image of Kurama temple is Sonten(尊天), which is universe's great spirits, great ray, and great active object. Maybe due to this and its surrounding nature, Kurama is said to be one of such places where spiritual energy abounds in Kyoto.

Also, Kurama is well known for its long-nosed mountain goblin(天狗), which trained young samurai Minamoto Yoshitsune(源義経). Yoshitsune is one of the most popular samurai in Japanese history. He heroically defeated Taira clan with genius tactics in late Heian period(late in 12th century), which ironically lead to unease of his elder brother and the very first Shogun of Minamoto Yoritomo. Yoshitsune was tragically attacked and killed in far away Hiraizumi in north east of Japan. 

Edo period(17th - 19th century) haiku master Matsuo Basho read famous haiku in Hiraizumi where Yoshitsune was killed:
夏草や 兵どもの 夢の跡 / Summer grasses, All that remains, Of warriors' dreams

A long-nosed goblin of Kurama greets you
Deva gate of Kurama temple, on top of Mount Kurama
From Kurama train station, you pass in front of the statue of long-nosed mountain goblin, and in 5 minutes you reach the main entrance of Kurama temple and Mount Kurama. There are several shops which sells very local product, but there is no touristy atmosphere. I mentioned the train station, but it is very local train service and it runs just with two cars.

800 year old cedar tree
There are spiritual trees even before arriving the main hall of Kurama temple. This 800 year-old cedar tree seems to ooze out the spirit. There is even shrine inside Kurama temple. This is very unique Japanese religious ambiguity where Buddhism and indigenous Shinto coexist. The shinto shrine Yuki shrine is the stage of Kurama fire festival that takes place 22-October every year.

View from the main hall of Kurama temple
It is not exactly mountain climbing, but still it is a good walk to reach the main hall. View from the stage in front of the main hall is very rewarding. There only mountains are viewed. Only 30 minutes from central Kyoto and you get this splendid view.

Stone floor with geometric patten is said to be where energy flow out
And in front of the main hall, this geometric patterned stone floor is found. You may wonder that this is the grounding area for UFO. If there is long-nosed mountain goblins living here, why not UFO?



the main hall 
Inside the main hall, monk was chanting heart sutra. There are many statue of Buddhism deities. As photos are prohibited inside main hall, you have to appreciate them yourself.

"Path of tree root" from Kurama to Kibune
From the main hall of Kurama temple, you can go to Kibune shrine via mountain path. Most of the path are stone steps, but there are some ranges where there is no stone steps and instead only tree root. This is called "path of tree root"(木の根道). This is my second time to walk in this path. I remember from my previous walk that range of "path of tree root" is much longer, but I find on this occasion actually not so long. Most are stone steps. But ups and downs are very steep, and I only meet only a couple of persons in the entire path. If you like the serene spiritual place, this is for you. But if you are not good at such a place, do not try alone.

Okuno-in sits in very quietly between Kurama and Kibune
Half way from Kurama temple to Kibune, you find tranquil structure of Okuno-in. I wonder if Yoshitune worked on his swordsmanship in such a place as this more than 800 years ago.

West gate of Kurama temple
After the last steep downs of mountain path, you get to the end of trail, or west gate of Kurama temple. Kurama is east to Kibune. Kibune is famous for floor over river restaurants in the hot summer. It is said that Kibune is 3-5 degree cooler than central Kyoto. Now in October, I don't find any floor over river restaurants, but there are a lot of establishments that commands hundreds of years of history.


Steps to Kibune shrine
Kibune river runs along Kibune and Kibune shrine. This is the origin of Kyoto's main river of Kamo river, and Kibune is the place of worship for water. It is said that Izumi Shikibu(和泉式部) of 10th to 11th century paid a visit to Kibune shrine and there are several monuments that are related to her, and due to that fact, the path from Kibune shrine to Kibune station of local train service is named path of love.

I have been to Kurama three times including this occasion, but only in September-October. I really like to come here in winter, preferably when snow falls. I am not so god at cold, but in winter more spiritual this place must be.

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Software engineer in Kyoto