2015/02/01

Zen - snow capped Kinkaku-ji

Significant snow fall was observed in the morning of Sunday February 1st in Kyoto. On this occasion, I went to see the snow capped Kinkaku-ji for the first time in my life. Actually I have been to that area quite often for half a decade, but my favorite is rock garden of Ryoan-ji and spacious and charge-free Ninna-ji, both of which are registered as UNESCO World heritage and in walking distance from Kinkaku-ji. At the opening time of 9 AM, there was a queue, but it was worth it.

Snow capped Golden Pavilion, 01-Feb-2015

Snow falling garden pond reminiscent of black and white drawing of Zen monk, 01-Feb-2015

Snow capped Golden Pavilion from the hill, 01-Feb-2015

Golden Pavilion has become so famous an image that people seems to forget that this is a Zen temple, belonging to Shokoku-ji branch of Rinzai school. Gold covered pavilion seems to be against to wabi-sabi aesthetic of Zen, but get rid of Golden Pavilion and its pond and garden has still quite a tranquil charm. There is also tea house preserved that entertained the emperor and nobility centuries ago. 

There were three shogunates in Japanese history. The first is Minamoto/Kamakura from the late 12th to the middle of 14th century. The second is Ashikaga/Muromachi from the middle of 14th to the late 16th century. The third is Tokugawa/Edo from the beginning of 17th to the late 19th century. The Golden Pavilion was constructed by the 3rd shogun of Ashikaga/Muromachi shogunate. 

Of the three shogunates, I used to think Muromachi era the least appealing. But now re-learning the history of tea, and various form of art and national psyche, Muromachi was an era that broadened the basis of preceding era and took them to the completing stage. Buddhism had been just for scholars and nobilities till 12th century. Pure land and Zen made them to the element of everyone's and everyday's life when nobilities gave up power to samurai. It seems ironic that emergence of samurai the fighter emancipated Buddhism to farmers and merchants. Of course it were monks that spearheaded the new schools of Kamakura Buddhism, but samurai the fighter adhered to Zen and farmers to Pure land.

Once I read D.T.Suzuki's book that said there is no boundary of subject and object. Every action in everyday life is mundane and sublime at the same time, thus there is no boundary between mundane and sublime. Visiting famous temple is sublime and mundane at the same time, and there is no boundary of religious practice and non religious practice. Every actions in life is religious and non religious at the same time. As there may be no boundary between gaudy and modest, so Kingaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji may be opposite and same at the same time. Confusing and confused.

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Software engineer in Kyoto