2013/09/08

Japan's modern capital to host 2020 Summer Olympic Games

Tokyo is chosen as the host city of 2020 Summer Olympic Games today. It was Sunday's early morning around 5:20 AM Japan time when IOC announced the voting result. It is encouraging to many Japanese, but maybe a bit of nuisance to certain people.

I am simply glad to hear the news. But two of the Summer Olympic Games in Japan to take place both in Tokyo is not a good idea to my cynical Kansai mind. Almost everything, from parliament and headquarters of big companies to Emperor's residence, are in Tokyo. There are great cities in Japan, from Sendai, Hiroshima, to Fukuoka, all of which has population of more than 1 million. They are big enough to host the games.

I like Japan's modern capital of Tokyo, which means "Eastern Capital". But I love Japan's ancient capital of Kyoto, which means "Capital". Kyoto was devastated when Emperor moved from Kyoto to Tokyo after Meiji restoration, closing 1200 year's Imperial residence here. Kyoto faced the existential crisis at the time in the late 19th century. Many of the craftsmen worked only for the need of Imperial family and noblemen. Those needs suddenly evaporated. Kyoto became just old, ancient, waiting for declining fortune and slow decay.

That's in mind, I walked on my regular path in philosophical mood around Kyoto in light rain.

In the last 19th century, a bold measure was conceived and tried, to successful implementation. That was Biwako canal(Lake Biwa canal). Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan and important transportation hub. Kyoto city does not have water transportation route, limiting transfer of large amount of goods. Kyoto municipal government tried to usher in the modern culture and technology in this very ancient and perhaps conservative place. The tunnel engineer of early 20s was in charge of the challenge of making canal. It was the biggest such endeavor in Japan at the time. After tremendous difficulties, the canal was made. Transportation became convenient, but also they came up the idea of making Japan's first sizable hydro-electric power plant using the water of the canal, which in turn lead to Japan's first "electric" train. This paved the way for Kyoto to industrialize and reverse the declining fortune.

These modern legacy can be seen in one of the most ancient place. Roman aqueduct in Nanzenji temple ground. This modern structure exists in perfect harmony with the ancient architecture.
Roman aqueduct of Biwako canal can be seen in Nanzenji temple ground

The water from Biwako canal made new waterway that is philosopher's path. I don't think this path is so impressive, but seems to attract many tourists. This path is named so because philosophers at nearby University of Kyoto walked along this path, thinking about the philosophical issues.

Water from Biwako canal makes philosopher's path north of Nanzenji

You can find tranquil place a short walk from the philosopher's path. It is called Honen-in temple. Honen is the founder of Pure land Buddhism of Japan in 12th century. So Honen himself was a philosopher, opening Buddhism to ordinary people for salvation. Buddhism in Japan was just for monks and noblemen at the time. This temple is located in secluded place and very quiet, which is perfect for contemplation.


Honen-in is a few minutes walk from philosopher's path

Walk further north and you will see the slope leading to Ginkaku-ji temple. But skip this too touristy a place and turn left, and keep walking. Then you see the campus of University of Kyoto. I heard that purpose of University of Tokyo is to produce 999 highly brilliant persons out of 1000 students, while purpose of University of Kyoto is to produce 1 genius(or insane person) out of 1000 students. I don't know the truth and I am not bright enough to go to this prestigious university. I don't take statistics, but I think majority of Japanese Nobel prize winners studied or researched at University of Kyoto.

On the street facing University of Kyoto, some establishments stand to feed the students and researchers. Shinpuku-saikan(新福菜館) may be Kyoto's most famous ramen restaurant. There is a branch of Shinpuku-saikan near university. The broth looks thick, but taste is plain.

Ramen broth at Shinpuku-saikan looks thick, but tastes plainly simple

I repeated that Kyoto is ancient city, but somehow bread in quality has been made in quantity in Kyoto. Arguably rice is Japanese staple from ancient times, but quality bread has been produced and consumed in this city. One of these bakery is Shinshin-do and it has cafe bakery near University. I have never entered the inside, but I guess it's very atmospheric cafe suited for philosophical or scientific discussion.


Atmospheric Shinshin-do cafe bakery near University of Kyoto, providing time and space for study

Conclusion. Congratulations for Tokyo to host 2020 Olympics. Tokyo is the attractive modern city. But Tokyo is just one aspect of Japan.


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Software engineer in Kyoto