After typhoons and rains, Kansai is finally and suddenly cooling

One week ago, the temperature was as high as 30 degrees in Kyoto. The biggest typhoon in decades flooded a couple of rivers in Kyoto in mid September and it looked like the autumn has finally arrived. But after that typhoon, summer-like temperature had persisted until last week. The weather pattern has suddenly changed this week, requiring not electric fan but sweater. And after another typhoon passed over Kansai, it is now genuinely autumn like.

Today it rained, but walked along the east bank of Kamo river. Mid September typhoon flooded Katsura river in the west of Kyoto so severely that Arashiyama area, one of the most picturesque places in Kyoto, suffered great damage. Kamo river's damage was not so severe, but the river floor of this juncture where Kamo river and Takano river meet seems to suffer some damage. It does not just look like as it used to be.

Kamo river delta on 20-Oct-2013

Kamo river delta on 16-Sep-2013, just after the biggest typhoon in decades

East bank of Kamo river is rather quiet. I am happy to find that some of the leaves start changing color along the street. Autumn foliage season is ranked lower than cherry blossom season in spring, but I personally prefer autumn foliage season.

Color of leaves start changing along the street on the east bank of Kamo river

And along this street stands the Germany's Goethe-Institut of Kyoto. I have to take German as second foreign language in the university, and Germany was my second favorite country after America when I was a university student. I have been to Germany more times than any other European countries, but all except once were business trips. My taste has changed, so I have used Goethe-Institut only once. And that was when Germany played very important match in 2002 FIFA world cup. Watching Germans play with German beer in Goethe-Institut was an interesting experience. Prost !

German Goethe-Institut in Kyoto is located on the east bank of Kamo river

Sake tasting in Nada at Nishinomiya-go

My sake brewery tour continues in October. This time I visit the Nishinomiya city side of Nada. Nada spans Kobe city and Nishinomiya city.

I take Hanshin railway from Osaka Umeda station before noon. As playoff game is to take place in Koshien baseball stadium between Hanshin Tigers and Hiroshima Carps, many baseball colors are on board. The name makes it obvious that Hanshin railway and Hanshin Tigers are related, so using Hanshin railway is perhaps the most convenient way to go to the stadium. My destination is one stop further Koshien station in Express train.

Perhaps I have never been to Nishinomiya city. I sometimes go to Kobe, but do not stop between Osaka and Kobe. Nishinomiya is located between Kobe and Osaka.

Nishinomiya breweries are in walking distance from the station. First stop is at Hakutaka-rokusui-en(白鷹禄水苑). Hakutaka means "white falcon". There is authentic restaurant inside to enjoy sake with food, but all on the menu are too expensive to me, so I take sake sampler of the season at Kura bar. As a sake novice, I can not tell the description of the three sake on offer, but I just tell that all are fresh, dry, and very good when served cold. Also each is served in rather small quantity, so I enjoy each sip by taking enough time. As it is just after noon and I am the only person taking sake, Kura bar is very quiet and atmospheric.

Entrance to Hakutara-rokusuien

Sake sampler at Kura bar in Hakutara-rokusuien

Kura bar in Hakutara-rokusui-en

After taking nourishment of sake at Hakutaka-rokusuien, I go on to sake museums of Hakushika. Hakushika means "white deer". Somehow, shiro(白) or white is often used for the name of breweries in Nada. There may be a historic meaning of this naming that I am not aware of.

You have to pay 400 yen entrance fee that is valid for both Sake museum and memorial hall. And better yet, you get 180ml miniature Sake bottle as souvenir for this fee. It is more than worth it.

Entrance to Hakushika Sake museum

Like its counterparts in Kobe city side of Nada, Sake brewing processes are displayed and explained in the museum. It must be very interesting to understand each process, but I can't still get the gist. I have been to whisky factory tour at Suntory Yamazaki twice, in Jameson Dublin twice, in Bushmills once, but still can't understand the whisky distillation process. My interest is focused on tasting, not learning the process. Someday, my attitude may change.

Hakushika Sake museum

Hakushika Sake museum

Souvenir miniature Sake bottle of Hakushika Sake museum

After museum and memorial hall complex of Hakushika, I walk along Sakagura street to another Sake spot of Nihonsakari brick building hall. Sakagura street literally means "Sake storehouse" street. There seems to be many activities on offer in this hall besides Sake. As bar-restaurant is fully reserved, I only take free Sake tasting. As it is free, the quantity is too small to fully appreciate Sake.

Nihonsakari brick building hall

On my way back to Nishinomiya station, I paid a visit to two places that makes Nada the center of Sake brewery. Miyamizu high quality water that was found in Nishinomiya is one of the several factors that makes Nada famous for Sake. There is one garden and one monument that are related to this high quality water, but not so interesting, to be honest.

Miyamizu(high quality water) garden

The place of origin of Miyamizu(high quality water) 

Kurama abounds in spiritual energy

Kurama is just about 30 minutes train ride from central Kyoto, and yet the area is surrounded by abundant nature and there is even a spa. Kurama temple was established in 770 by Gancho. Mount Kurama is 584m high, and perhaps whole mountain is the ground of training and practice for Kurama temple's monks. The principle image of Kurama temple is Sonten(尊天), which is universe's great spirits, great ray, and great active object. Maybe due to this and its surrounding nature, Kurama is said to be one of such places where spiritual energy abounds in Kyoto.

Also, Kurama is well known for its long-nosed mountain goblin(天狗), which trained young samurai Minamoto Yoshitsune(源義経). Yoshitsune is one of the most popular samurai in Japanese history. He heroically defeated Taira clan with genius tactics in late Heian period(late in 12th century), which ironically lead to unease of his elder brother and the very first Shogun of Minamoto Yoritomo. Yoshitsune was tragically attacked and killed in far away Hiraizumi in north east of Japan. 

Edo period(17th - 19th century) haiku master Matsuo Basho read famous haiku in Hiraizumi where Yoshitsune was killed:

夏草や　兵どもの　夢の跡 / Summer grasses, All that remains, Of warriors' dreams

A long-nosed goblin of Kurama greets you

Deva gate of Kurama temple, on top of Mount Kurama

From Kurama train station, you pass in front of the statue of long-nosed mountain goblin, and in 5 minutes you reach the main entrance of Kurama temple and Mount Kurama. There are several shops which sells very local product, but there is no touristy atmosphere. I mentioned the train station, but it is very local train service and it runs just with two cars.

800 year old cedar tree

There are spiritual trees even before arriving the main hall of Kurama temple. This 800 year-old cedar tree seems to ooze out the spirit. There is even shrine inside Kurama temple. This is very unique Japanese religious ambiguity where Buddhism and indigenous Shinto coexist. The shinto shrine Yuki shrine is the stage of Kurama fire festival that takes place 22-October every year.

View from the main hall of Kurama temple

It is not exactly mountain climbing, but still it is a good walk to reach the main hall. View from the stage in front of the main hall is very rewarding. There only mountains are viewed. Only 30 minutes from central Kyoto and you get this splendid view.

Stone floor with geometric patten is said to be where energy flow out

And in front of the main hall, this geometric patterned stone floor is found. You may wonder that this is the grounding area for UFO. If there is long-nosed mountain goblins living here, why not UFO?

the main hall 

Inside the main hall, monk was chanting heart sutra. There are many statue of Buddhism deities. As photos are prohibited inside main hall, you have to appreciate them yourself.

"Path of tree root" from Kurama to Kibune

From the main hall of Kurama temple, you can go to Kibune shrine via mountain path. Most of the path are stone steps, but there are some ranges where there is no stone steps and instead only tree root. This is called "path of tree root"(木の根道). This is my second time to walk in this path. I remember from my previous walk that range of "path of tree root" is much longer, but I find on this occasion actually not so long. Most are stone steps. But ups and downs are very steep, and I only meet only a couple of persons in the entire path. If you like the serene spiritual place, this is for you. But if you are not good at such a place, do not try alone.

Okuno-in sits in very quietly between Kurama and Kibune

Half way from Kurama temple to Kibune, you find tranquil structure of Okuno-in. I wonder if Yoshitune worked on his swordsmanship in such a place as this more than 800 years ago.

West gate of Kurama temple

After the last steep downs of mountain path, you get to the end of trail, or west gate of Kurama temple. Kurama is east to Kibune. Kibune is famous for floor over river restaurants in the hot summer. It is said that Kibune is 3-5 degree cooler than central Kyoto. Now in October, I don't find any floor over river restaurants, but there are a lot of establishments that commands hundreds of years of history.

Steps to Kibune shrine

Kibune river runs along Kibune and Kibune shrine. This is the origin of Kyoto's main river of Kamo river, and Kibune is the place of worship for water. It is said that Izumi Shikibu(和泉式部) of 10th to 11th century paid a visit to Kibune shrine and there are several monuments that are related to her, and due to that fact, the path from Kibune shrine to Kibune station of local train service is named path of love.

I have been to Kurama three times including this occasion, but only in September-October. I really like to come here in winter, preferably when snow falls. I am not so god at cold, but in winter more spiritual this place must be.