Mount Yoshino is refreshing even without cherry blossoms

Mount Yoshino in central Nara prefecture is famous for its cherry blossoms. I like to see them once in my lifetime, but I expect it's too crowded in that season to appreciate the beauty of floating nature. Recently I have been to Nara prefecture several times, Nara city where cosmic Buddha sits in Todai-ji temple, Ikaruga town where World Heritage Site Horyu-ji temple stands, and Hase where sacred Hase-dera is located. But I have never been to Mount Yoshino, so I took the day trip to Mount Yoshino on late summer holiday on September 6th.

It took about 2 hours from Kyoto to Yoshino by Kintetsu railway. The landscape from the railway south of Kashihara jingu station is really beautiful. It's very rural, a lot of green and large plot of rice paddy. Time seems to be very slow in this part of Nara.

From Kintetsu Yoshino station, ropeway ride of a couple of minutes get you at the entrance of Mount Yoshino. As this is not cherry blossoms season nor autumn foliage time, the area is deserted. Actually the whole area is designated as World Heritage Site of "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range", but it seems that does not attract many visitors aside from high season.

Just a short walk from ropeway station, a couple of gate appears and then Kimpsen-ji temple comes to your eyes. This is the place of mountain Shugendo training, mixing Buddhism and Shinto. It is said to be the 2nd largest wooden building after Todai-ji. When I arrived, there was some ritual or ceremony under way. But don't be afraid. It is not of so mysterious nature.

Near this temple, there is Yoshimizu shrine. In 14th century, there was two emperors in Japan for a brief period. One was in Kyoto called Northern Court, the other was in Yoshino called Southern Court. This Yoshimizu shrine is dedicated for Emperor Go-daigo of Southern Court. But the attraction of this shrine is not history but view of mountain. As this is early September, the mountain is covered with refreshing green. I guess the entire mountain would be covered with cherry blossoms in spring. It must be superb.

From there, slope becomes rather steep. I managed to get to Chikurin-in where nice garden is maintained. This is the only place to pay admission fee (300 yen) in the day. There are other spots further up, but I don't go further and start to return. There are many shops to sell "sushi with persimmon leaf" and "kuzukiri". Nara is famous for both of these speciality foods. Yoshino is especially famous of "kudzu" from which "kuzukiri" is made. Most of the shops are deserted. I entered one shop and no shop clerk was seen even after I called. But I managed to find one shop where shop clerks were there. By the way kudzu is some kind of plant, which I don't know much, and kuzukiri is translated as "clear cake of boiled kuzuko cut into noodle-like strips and eaten with kuromitsu". If you like to try yet another type of noodle after ramen, this may be it.

World Heritage Site Kimpuse-ji temple Zaodo, Mount Yoshino

Mount Yoshino would be filled with cherry blossoms in spring

Yoshino is famous for Kudzu plant, from which Kuzukiri is made

Ise shrine under reconstruction at its 20th year

Finally, the heat wave in Kansai is subsiding. I took a late holidays, though it was just a couple of days. The most important Shinto tradition is now taking place in Ise shrine that is the most sacred in Japan, so I took this opportunity to take a day trip to Ise city on September 5th. Using Kintetsu railway limited express, it is about two hours from Kyoto to Ise city. 

I have been to Ise shrine only once in my lifetime. And it was a school trip when I was at elementary school. My memory of this sacred place is vague at best, non-existing at my worst.

Anyway, what I called the most important Shinto tradition now under way at Ise shrine is called Shikinen-Sengu(式年遷宮). I looked for the translation of this, and one on-line dictionary translates "construction of a new shrine and transfer of the enshrined object from the old to the new, occurring at a regular, preordained time." Every 20 years all the buildings of Ise shrine is reconstructed and deities are relocated to new buildings. And this has been ongoing over 1300 years, beginning int the reign of Empress Jito in 600s. A bit away from main topics, but you may be surprised that there was an Empress in the Japanese history.

There is said to be two reasons for this tradition. The first is that all the buildings of Ise shrine are built with woods, so it can not stand for long years. The second is that reconstructing all the buildings every 20 years can transfer the technique and knowledge of shrine building from one generation to the next. I think the second reason more important. I can not compare my day to day job to this Shinto tradition, but nowadays I think this kind of activities are rather neglected in workplace as redundant.

Entrance gate of Ise shrine Naiku (Inner shrine)

Isuzu-gawa river runs in Ise shrine Naiku (Inner shrine)

Main hall of Ise shrine Geku (Outer shrine)

Kyoto mountain burning in midsummer, Daimonji and other mountains (August 16th)

Unknown to me, midsummer(around August 15th) is a holiday season in Japan. But summer holidays differ from company to company, or from person to person. The company I work for doesn't set any holidays in this season. Instead, I can set an holiday week any time in the year.

Anyway, midsummer observes two important memories in Japan. One is that Japan surrendered to the Allies in the world war II on August 15th, with entire nation in ruin. The other is related to Buddhism, in which the spirits of the ancestors visit this world in mid August, occasion being called O-bon. Usually family members living at different places get together in O-bon week. Another occasion when family members get together is new year's holidays. "New year and O-bon coming at the same time" is how Japanese expresses the very busy state.

Kyoto city observes O-bon by burning Chinese characters or figure written on five mountains surrounding the city on August 16th. Most well-known and first to be set fire is Mt. Daimonji. "Dai"(大) of Daimonji means "big" in Chinese character. This event is said to pray the peaceful return of the ancester's spirits that is visiting this(living) world back to another(not living) world. Usually after this event, the scorching heat subsides and usher in autumn. But it seems this year is an exception. We have to endure one or possibly two weeks of another terrible heat in Kansai.

Mt. Daimonji viewed from Kitao-ji bridge around 20:10

Japanese Whisky

When it comes to whisky, or whiskey if you prefer Irish spelling(inclusion of "e"), Scotland dominates its reputation. But recently, I have been hearing that Japanese whisky, especially Suntory's whisky, is getting recognition and even globally prestigious awards.

Suntory has two main distilleries, one in Yamazaki(Kyoto prefecture) and one in Hakushu(Yamashina prefecture). On Sunday, I visited Suntory's Yamazaki distillery, the border town of Kyoto prefecture and Osaka prefecture.

It is said that quality water and humid climate in Yamazaki contribute to the quality whisky of Suntory. The most distinguished tea master Sen-no-Rikyu had tea house in Yamazaki in 15th century, because water in Yamazaki was perfectly suited to make sublime tea.

There is a free distillery tour in Yamazaki with advance booking, it is fun and better yet as the tour ends with whisky tasting session. On Sunday, free tasting includes whisky(Yamazaki) with soda, whisky(Yamazaki) with ice, and whisky(Hakushu) with soda. I have not often tried whisky with soda, but it was really refreshing when taken in Yamazaki. I found new way to enjoy whisky. Thank you, Suntory Yamazaki.

Aside from water, this area has been an important traffic route between Osaka(biggest merchant city) and Kyoto(the imperial capital), so there were historical battle taking place around this area and nearby mountains. Rich in history and rich in quality water with hiking course, you can make a good excursion from Kyoto or Osaka.

Rows of whisky casks in Suntory Yamazaki distillery

Japanese people love to eat eel on day of the ox in midsummer, but..

It seems people in several countries eat eel, that long creature in fresh water. But Japanese eat eel most in quantities in the world. And on day of the ox in midsummer(late July or early August), Japanese especially love to eat eel. Most of the cheap gyu-don(beef on rice) franchise offer eel on rice during hot summer. Eel is considered rich in nutrition that is superbly beneficial to beat Japan's summer heat.

Eel is considered gourmet in Japan so it is usually expensive. But at beef on rice franchise, eel on rice is offered in reasonable price, so consumption of eel may be rising. On the other hand, depletion of eel population has recently become a big issue in Japan, so big that actually price of eel is rising. And if appropriate measure were not taken, eel would face extinction in coming decades.

Tuna also has an issue of shrinking population, but as sushi has become popular worldwid, protection of tuna is the global concern. That leads to global convention or treaty to make quota on tuna catch to protect tuna population. These measure may not be enough, but at least certain measures are taken to protect tuna. But eel is not so popular in the world, so there is no effective measure to protect eel population.

Most of the eel that Japanese consume are cultivated eel, but I heard that there were wild eels in Kyoto's main river of Kamo river in a couple of generation ago. It may be still swimming in Kamo river, but I have never seen them. If wild eel could be seen again more oftern in Kamo river, that would be lovely.

Eel on rice at gyu-don franchise, at hefty price of 680 yen

Kamo river runs in Kyoto, where wild eel may be swimming

Marine Day holiday at Gio-ji temple's moss garden

The third Monday of July is Marine Day holiday in Japan. I think the reason why there is a holiday for seas is unknown to most Japanese. It seems that the government likes to make Japan as marine country. You don't have to explicitly state that as you can easily see that Japan is surrounded by seas. But anyway, extra holiday is good for workers.

City center of Kyoto is extra crowded as Gion festival nears its climax. Hot, humid, no good. But I had a good experience to visit Gio-ji in Saga, northwest of Kyoto, around the same time last year, so I visited there today. Gio-ji is located a little bit far from touristy area of Arashiyama, and its temple ground is small, and no grand gate or building is there. So there is only a few visitors in this season. It may be well known for autumn foliage season, but I feel Gio-ji is most appreciated in this season as its moss-covered garden becomes lush with pure green. It has rained for a couple days, so green of moss-covered garden looks extra green.

Gio-ji is known for Gio, tragic figure associated with samurai Taira-no Kiyomori of late Heian period. How arrogant Kiyomori was!

Moss-covered garden of Gio-ji looks extra green after rain

Gion festival there

The occasion to go to Kyoto's center, Shijo-street, becomes less frequent these days. But still go there occasionally. And at this time of the year, humidity and temperature is quite uncomfortable in Kyoto, especially in central Kyoto. There is no skyscrapers in Kyoto, but buildings of 6 floors or 7 floors are concentrated in these area so that heat island phenomenon makes there hotter. And so does Gion festival, which officially continues from July 1st to July 31st. But the most atmospheric period is the nights from 14th to 16th, which correspond to pre-, pre-pre-, pre-pre-pre nights of the main event. Main events takes place on 17th, but I have seen the main event only once in my life even though I have been living in Kyoto. Gondolas are pulled by volunteers and move through main streets. That's the festival of old days, which was organized by emperor(or nobles?) to expel the evil spirit and bad wether from the capital. It may be interesting, but not much for modern people. But pre- nights forces streets pedestrians only and many stalls are there to sell anything from standard skewed chicken, fried noodles, to raw cucumber. That's the festival of modern times. Old or modern, this festival has history of 1000 or so years.

One of  gondolas of Gion festival on Shijo street