Cherry Blossoms in Nara Yoshino 2015 - Mid April

Mount Yoshino in Nara prefecture has been quite frequently sung in Japanese poetry from ancient times. Its mountain cherry blossoms is said to be the most beautiful in Japan. Monk Saigyo sang in his poem in 12th century that he wished to die in the day of Syakyamuni's nirvana day under cherry blossoms of Mount Yoshiko. And it is said that actually he did die in the day but not in Mount Yoshino.

Nowaday, less than 2 hours train ride links Kyoto and Yoshino. Ancient times, it would take some days from emperor's residence in Kyoto to Yoshino, but record has it that number of emperors paid a trip to this place. In 14th century, dual imperial courts had existed in short duration called South-North court. South court was established by emperor Go-daigo in this place, resisting the "North" court in Kyoto. The shrine for emperor Go-daigo still exists and view from there is magnificent in this season, called "thousand trees in one look".

From low altitude to high altitude, mountain areas are called shimo senbon, naka senbon, kami senbon, and oku senbon. Monk Saigyo's hut exists in the highest area of oku senbon.

It is said that the place is quite crowded in this season, and the certain limited express train services between Yoshino and Kyoto/Osaka are fully booked. Still local train services are available to reach the foot of Mount Yoshino. From there, there are ropeway service to shimo senbon, but quite a long queue was formed. But just 20 minutes of uphill walk substitutes ropeway service. Shimo senbon area was quite crowded. There is a huge temple of Kimpusen-ji, which adheres to mixed faith of indigenous mountain worship and Buddhism. On the occasion of spring festive mood, there was a mountain priests procession. It could be nice, but it blocked the road from shimo senbon to upper part of the mountain perhaps half an hour. One more encounter of the crowdedness was that just boarding bus service from naka senbon to oku senbon had to be waited for one hour. Thus walking the sometimes unpaved path was the fastest yet challenging way up the hill.

It rained the day before, and the weather was cloudy on the day. So the unpaved part of the path was slippery. If you were to tumble, your clothes could get muddy instantly. Mikumari shrine, Takagi viewpoint rest place were reached, but the weather became chilly and Monk Saigyo's hut was given up. There seems to be another legend that tragic samurai hero of Minamoto Yoshitune, younger brother of the very first shogun Minamoto Yoritomo, hided in Mount Yoshino.

"Thousand trees in one look" (一目千本) from shimo senbon, 11-Apr-2015

From Kami senbon, 11-Apr-2015

From Kami senbon, 11-Apr-2015

Shotoku school of Buddhism in Nara Ikaruga town

Less known than Nara city's cosmic Buddha in Todai-ji and deers around Nara park, Ikaruga town is possibly of more historical value and yet far less crowded in Nara prefecture. Actually one of the two World Heritage sites there are close to devoid of tourists even in the cherry blossom season.

Horyu-ji, Horin-ji, and Hoki-ji belongs to Shotoku school of Buddhism, becoming independent of Hokke school quite recently in 1950. This soil is associated with Prince Shotoku, whose face used to be printed on 10,000 yen notes. Possibly Horyu-ji is the second oldest among major temples only to Asuka-dera also in Nara prefecture.

From JR Horyu-ji station, street to Horyu-ji has a lot of car traffic. From huge temple ground of Horyu-ji to Horin-ji, car traffic decreases dramatically and the idyllic landscape reins. There are strawberry farms, but no convenience stores. Signposts are not so many, and distance is comfortably decent on foot, so can be lost but can't die, as there are at least two drink vending machines from Horyu-ji to Horin-ji. And it seems that certain community bus services exists around the area that is too infrequent to be of help to touristy type.

Horin-ji is free of charge. It temple ground is small in comparison to Horyu-ji, but quite comfortable. The number of touristy type decreases dramatically from Horyu-ji. Foot seems to be the best transportation choice, but rental bicycle is another choice.

From Horin-ji to Hoki-ji, the idyllic landscape continues but the last stretch goes along the car traffic. Hoki-ji, one of the two World Heritage sites in this town, charges 300 yen. Now mostly devoid of touristy type, relaxing time can be had. This temple ground is said to have established in early 7th century of Prince Shotoku's time and flourished in 8th century, when this temple was independent of Horyu-ji. But after this temple came under Horyu-ji's control in 9th century, decline started. In the early Edo period of 17th century, only three story pagoda remained. Effort for resurgence was undertaken in mid Edo period onward and the current Galan spacial design and buildings were re-established. The temple ground and buildings continues to exist, but its school changes from Shingon Esoteric to Hokke to Shotoku. It is one of the puzzling historical facts that the same temple could be used for different Buddhist schools, as teaching can be quite different from school to school. 300 yen admission fee is worth it, passing Hoki-ji's turbulent 1400 year heritage to the future in this rural relaxing atmosphere.

Hoki-ji, 04-Apr-2015

Horin-ji, 04-Apr-2015

Horyu-ji five storied pagoda, 04-Apr-2015

Rimpa - temple of art gallery

Western world seems to be in Easter holiday over this weekend this year. Nothing related to that, but birth of Shakyamuni or Buddha is April 8.

Kennin-ji temple is said to be the first Zen temple in Kyoto, founded by monk Eisai. Eisai is also known for introducing green tea to Japan from Sung dynasty of China, where he had undertaken Zen teaching in 12th century. This temple also seems to have nurtured painters old and new, the most famous among them being representative of Rimpa school of Tawaraya Sotatsu. Even though the original is now stored in Kyoto National Museum, one of the most famous works of Sotatsu "The Wind and Thunder Gods" was originally at Kennin-ji, and its precise replica made with camera giant Cannon is on display at this Rinzai Zen temple. And quite unique thing about Kennin-ji is that photos are allowed to all the paintings, gardens, and buildings in the premises.

The Wind and Thunder Gods, by Tawaraya Sotatsu, 03-Apr-2015

Tawaraya Sotatsu was a merchant painter and Kyoto native, while Kaiho Yusho was from samurai family, whose master Asai clan was defeated by Oda clan in warring period and Yusho was solo survivor of his family. He abandoned samurai (there might not be any other way to survive than that) and became Buddhist monk at Tofuku-ji temple in Kyoto, which is also Rinzai Zen.

Flowers and Birds, by Kaiho Yusho, 03-Apr-2015

Cloud Dragon, by Kaiho Yusho, 03-Apr-2015

The old paintings were related to Buddhism or painted for Buddhist temples as patron, so it is natural for them to be on display on the ancient institutions. But some of the old Buddhist temples now display contemporary artists' works. The works of Toba Mika were painted for Kennin-ji on the occasion of 800th year of monk Eisai's passing in 2014. These paintings are not even landscape of Japan, but of Vietnam. The motif is different, but canvas is traditional Japanese sliding doors.

The calm, by contemporary Toba Mika, 03-Apr-2015

Twin Dragons were also new work. This huge painting was commissioned on the occasion of 800th year of the temple's founding in 2002. The motif is same, but impression is different from old works.

Twin Dragons, drawn on the ceiling of Dharma Hall with size of 11.4m by 15.7m, 03-Apr-2015

Dharma Hall (Hatto) and Hojo are connected with corridor, and you can view the huge ground of temple complex from there. In this season, you may happen to view cherry blossoms in full bloom.

Cherry blossoms seen from the corridor between Hojo and Hatto, 03-Apr-2015

Cherry Blossoms in Kyoto 2015 - late March

28-Mar-2015 (Sat)
Jyobon-rendai-ji (上品蓮台寺)

Cherry blossoms at Jyobon-rendai-ji, 28-Mar-2015 (Sat)

History of Jyobon-rendai-ji, 28-Mar-2015 (Sat)

29-Mar-2015 (Sun) Imperial Palace Garden in rainy condition

Imperial Palace Garden, 29-Mar-2015 (Sun)

30-Mar-2015 (Mon) To-ji temple

To-ji temple, 30-Mar-2015 night (Mon)

To-ji temple, 30-Mar-2015 night (Mon)

31-Mar-2015 night (Tue)

Kano river to Shichi-jo bridge, 31-Mar-2015 (Tue)

Maruyama Park, 31-Mar-2015 night (Tue)

Gion Shirakawa, 31-Mar-2015 night (Tue)

Kyoto's sister city - Prague's Jewish Quarter

A couple of hours became available in Prague just before going back home, so I took a look at Prague main railway station and got lost in Jewish Quarter.


I tend to like an atmosphere of station, where people come and leave. Especially European train station is of special interest as there are international trains, where are yet impossible to island nation of Japan. I found a train bound for Hungarian capital of Budapest on this occasion. It is understandable that they share the liking of goulash.

Prague main railway station, 20-Mar-2015

From main railway station strolled I to National Museum and Wenceslas Square, then to Old Town. There I just took a path bit off the heavy touristy area, and got lost in Jewish Quarter. Jewish Quarter is tourist spot on its own, but still I got lost. Christianity is imported to Japan mostly superficially, but Judaism is almost absent in Japanese soil. I didn't get the hint what Judaism is in just a short walk, but it was interesting to be lost in Jewish Quater.

Ceremonial Hall in Jewish Quarter, 20-Mar-2015

Spanish Synagogue in Jewish Quarter, 20-Mar-2015

Maisel Synagogue in Jewish Quarter, 20-Mar-2015

After enjoying being lost in Jewish Quarter, I emerged to Vltaba river that was becoming familiar view. I encountered two street music performer on the bridge, one playing accordion and the other playing glass. Both were comfortable to my ears on the bridge.

Glass music performer on Charles Bridge, 20-Mar-2015

 

Kyoto's sister city - Prague's Alfons Mucha

Certain number of my Japanese acquaintances seem to like Alfons Mucha's art works. So I tried two spots in Prague where Mucha's works are appreciated.

The photo is prohibited at Mucha Museum, so only photo from outside. His works when staying in Paris made him famous and even gave him celebrity status, but I rather like the works when he made back in Czech.

Mucha Museum, 08-Mar-2015

A bit of distance from Mucha Museum stands Veletrzni Palace, which houses National Gallery. Mucha's The Slav Epic pictures has been on display here for some time. It is convenient for tourists, and I am glad to see them, but somehow I like them to stay where they were originally.

Veletrzni Palace where Alfons MUCHA's The Slav Epic is on display, 08-Mar-2015

Unlike Mucha Museum, photo taking is allowed at this place as far as flash is off. And this place is far less crowded than the Charles Bridge, so I could appreciate and take photos relatively unobstructed.

The Slav Epic #1. The Slavs in Their Original Homeland, 08-Mar-2015

The Slav Epic #2. Coronation of the Serbian Tsar Stefan Uros Dusan as East Roman Emperor, 08-Mar-2015

The Slav Epic #12. Petr Chelcicky, 08-Mar-2015
  

The Slav Epic #13. The Hussite King Jiri of Podebrady, 08-Mar-2015

After Mucha of Prague, I went to National Museum at Wenceslas Square to take yet another classical music concert. The performance lasted for 65 minutes, including works by Mozart, J.S.Bach, Vivaldi, Liszt, Dvorak, Smetana, Tchaikovski, and Brahms. It's in Czech, but listening the live performance of Brahms' "Hungary Dance" in European soil was emotional. It seems that Hungary and Czech share the liking of Goulash dish, so it somehow justifies my feeling that Hugnary theme in Czech soil made an emotional experience. No offense to either Hungarian or Czech.

Wenceslas Square after dark, 08-Mar-2015

Kyoto's sister city - Prague

Somehow I found myself in Prague, which was once the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. Kyoto  and Prague has been sister city since 15-Apr-1996. The size of the cities is similar, with Kyoto's population 1.4 million people and Prague's 1.2 million people. Prague is still the capital of Czech Republic, while Kyoto succumbed to Tokyo to abandon the status of capital of Japan. Yet I think both cities boast the ancient atmosphere.

Castle : Prague castle - Nijo castle
River : Vltaba river - Kamo river
Architecture : Church of Our Lady before Tyn - 5 storied pagoda of To-ji temple
Painter(s) : Alfons Mucha - Rimpa school of painters, including Ogata Korin
Writer : Franz Kafka - Haruki Murakami (Kyoto born)

Although I do the comparison, the comparison is meangingless or nonsense as the history, the custom and values had been quite different. It's just different!

My Czech colleagues kindly took a legion of us to Prague castle, river cruise, and the memorials of "Operation Anthropoid" (The National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror) that is located beneath the Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The last stop of the memorials of "Operation Anthropoid" is off tourist spots and crowd was thin, but of high educational value.

It's almost impossible for me to understand European history as Japanese history has been basically an isolated island history. Of course Japan' history has been significantly influenced by China and certain Asian countries, but there lies the sea that separates us from others and significantly protects us from direct conflict possibilities. European peoples has been living without deep sea that separates one peoples from the others. But for better communication on and off the work, understanding the history of its own and others is essential.

Vltava viewed on the way back from "Operation Anthropoid", 07-Mar-2015

Vltava and Prague Castle at sunset, 07-Mar-2015

I know that classical music's concert is often (daily?) performed at Clementinum's Mirror Chapel, but I am lucky to get into the one concert in which Smetana's Moldau is performed. It's one of my favorite classical music alongside Sibelius's Finlandia and Chopin's Etude Op.10,No.12. Listening to Moldau in Prague is dream come true. A bit of exaggeration, maybe.

Mirror Chapel of Clementinum where concert was held, 07-Mar-2015

More august concert hall is found at The Municipal house in Republic Square and its name is Smetana hall. Acutally I was there the day before to listen to Dvorak's Symphony "The New World". But I go again to take different composer and different masterpieces, including Vivadli's Four Seasons. It's worth it.

Smetana hall in the Municipal house where concert was held, 07-Mar-2015

Nichiren school of Buddhism in Kyoto and Rimpa

Broadly speaking, three "new" Buddhism schools were born in Kamakura period of 12th to 14th century. The first focused on Amitabha Buddha's western Pure Land, which was led by monks Honen, Shinran, and Ippen to seek salvation after the end of this world. The second focused the enlightenment by concentration and intuition, which was led by monks Eisai and Dogen to seek salvation in this world. Both were somehow supported or resisted by political establishments but did not directly challenge the political matters. But the third school of Nichiren school that put all the importance on Lotus Sutra and was led by monk Nichiren challenged the then shogunate of Kamakura Hojo family. Nichiren expressed that the country would face the existential peril unless adhered to the teaching of Lotus Sutra. Actually around that time Mongol empire attacked Japan twice in 1274 and 1281, both of which Japan repelled the Mongol with the help of the divine wind of untimely typhoons.

Nichiren school was established and expelled in Kyoto a couple of times because of its political inclination in Kamakura and Muromachi periods from 12th to 17th century. But the major figures of Rimpa artists seemed to be associated with this Buddhist school.

Family temple of Hon'ami Koetsu is Honpo-ji, while family temple of Ogata Korin and Ogata Kenzan is Myoken-ji, both of these temple belong to Nichiren school. And both temples are among this year's Winter Kyoto tour promotion.

Winter Kyoto tour promotion of 2015 with Rimpa 400th anniversary note

Honpo-ji specially displays the great nirvana paining by Hasegawa Tohaku during this winter period. The painting is huge and came with comical touch even though it was religious painting and also mourned the untimely death of his son. The other items on display include lacquer boxes by Koetsu. As usual photograph is not allowed for all of those items.

Koetsu designed garden of tomoe at Honpo-ji, 22-Feb-2015

Pagoda in Honpo-ji ground, 22-Feb-2015

A short walking distance from Honpo-ji and there stands Myoken-ji. The items on display includes paintings of Kano family as well as Korin.

This garden in Myoke-ji said to be designed after Korin's sliding door painting, 22-Feb-2015

Spot garden of bamboo in Myoken-ji, 22-Feb-2015

Tohaku and Sotatsu - Masterpieces outside of the museum

Kiyomizu-dera is perhaps the most touristy spot in Kyoto. Escape the area to the south for 20 minutes and there is the Kyoto National Museum. The building of this museum itself is worth a visit, and collections inside must be superb.

But within 5 minutes' walking distance of the Kyoto National Museum there exists two temples that house the masterpieces of the great Japanese painters.

Chichaku-in is the temple of Shingon Esoteric school of Buddhism. Somehow this temple houses the wall paintings of Hasegawa Tohaku and artists of his school. It is said that those paintings were housed in main buildings, but decay was becoming visible so that those are now housed in treasure hall equipped with temperature and humidity control. Also lighting is rather dim inside. Treasure house's four wall are fully occupied by wall painting, including painting of maples and painting of cherry trees. Those were made more than 400 years ago, when warring period of Japan was finally ending. The military leader Toyotomi Hideyoshi at the end of warring period was associated with this temple, who lost his son and mourned him at this temple. Taking photograph inside treasure house is prohibited. This temple is also well known for its garden, but luckily or unluckily there is some maintenance ongoing so no water in the garden, where water plays significant role in this garden. This kind of maintenance takes only once in decade(s). It is unlucky that I can not appreciate the garden, but it is lucky that I can see the garden devoid of water.

Red plum flower on Chishaku-in ground, 21-Feb-2015

Sliding door picture(not in treasure house), 21-Feb-2015

Sliding door picture(not in treasure house), 21-Feb-2015

Garden, which usually has water as key element, devoid of water, 21-Feb-2015

Just a short walk from Chishaku-in and opposite to the more famous Sanjusangen-do temple sits Yogen-in temple. Rather ironic thing is that this temple is closely associated with Tokugawa clan, which succeeded Toyotomi Hideyoshi and opened shogunate in modern day Tokyo. And four masterpieces by Tawaraya Sotatsu are on display. I don't remember but it is said that the Sotatsu's paintings housed in this temple are often used in art curriculum of elementary school and junior high school. These paintings are also about 400 year old, yet funny. Yes, funny, comical, cute, even strange may be the word that I feel for Sotatsu's painting of creatures real and imaginary. Paintings of white elephant is quite well known, which was depicted when there was no zoo with elephant in Kyoto. Painting of imaginary creature Ki-Rin is funny. Kirin is used by one of the biggest beer brewery in Japan as its company name. Kirin is well known in Japan as imaginary creature. But I first learned that actually Ki is male and Rin is female, and two body of Ki and Rin is depicted on flatly prepared cedar tree. Painting of imaginary creature Shishi lion is another feature. Those 3 sliding paintings of elephants, kirin, and lions are aligned on one spatial line, so that when one slide is opened then the painting in the distance becomes visible. This is the way to welcome the guest of Tokugawa clans. Again, taking photograph is prohibited.

Entrance of Yogen-in, with no human in sight. But inside 10 to 20 visitors. 21-Feb-2015

Rimpa - 400 years after

Kyoto tourist bureau seems to be busy selling the 400th anniversary of beginning of Rimpa school of Japanese painting. I think I first heard the term late last year or early this year.

But term Rimpa was coined only after 300 years of its birth, and term is still not so clear cut. It is usually considered that lineage encompasses of the 1st generation of Tawaraya Sotatsu and Hon'ami Koetsu in early 17th century Kyoto, the 2nd generation of Ogata Korin in early 18th century Kyoto, the 3rd generation of Sakai Hoitsu in early 19th century Edo(modern Tokyo), and continuing to this day. They are not family-run business, nor catering to the imperial court or shogun. They painted for merchant classes in Kyoto and later in Edo, and they chose Japanese theme as subject. They lived in different era so they had no direct contact, but they learned by first imitating the masterpieces of the bygone era, and recreating masterpieces with their own twist.

The era somehow overlapped with the other well known paintings of Ukiyo-e. Both Rimpa and Ukioyo-e were similar in its nature that they didn't serve the official matters of the imperial court or shogun. I hear that Rimpa and Ukiyo-e were rock'n roll kind of sort in their days.

I watched the short television program that the modern day Rimpa painting can be found at Enkou-ji temple in north east of Kyoto, and ventured there in the wet and cold winter day.

Enkou-ji is Zen temple from the early 17th century, and not outstanding among Kyoto's other famous tourist temples. But it could be jammed in autumn foliage season. But it is deserted in the winter day. It makes the perfect setting for Zen temple visit.

Honryutei dry landscape garden, 15-Feb-2015

Painting by Maruyama Oukyo, the realism painter from the late 18th century Kyoto, is housed in the building behind this Zen garden. The subject of the painting is bamboo forest inside the Enkou-ji premises.

Bamboo forest that Maruyama Oukyo might have got inspiration, 15-Feb-2015

Tomioka Tessai's painting from the late 19th century, 15-Feb-2015

Aside from paintings of Maruyama Oukyo and modern Rimpa painter Mr. Watanabe, painting of Tomioka Tessai is on display. But honestly I don't know much of painters. Just I feel that these are different from the European paintings, and nowadays I feel more at ease with these.

Modern Rimpa lineage titled four seasons of plants and flowers, 15-Feb-2015

The river design is reminiscent of Ogata Korin.

Modern Rimpa in close-up, 15-Feb-2015

The title is four season. I can see spring and autumn, but not sure of summer and winter. Anyway, it is splendid.